A Travel Update: My Plans This Summer

This week, I flicked back through my diary and realised that it’s almost been a full year since I arrived home in London after eighteen months spent travelling through my favourite continent. One year since South America?! It feels strange to think about myself back then. I didn’t feel particularly homely about my return; if anything, I was more unsettled […]

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A Taste of Scotland’s Culinary History

It was midnight at Euston Station. The rain was pouring outside, slicking its way down the carriage windows of the Caledonian Sleeper train. I opened my compartment door, wheeling a hastily packed suitcase behind me – and then I dropped the handle, surprised by the cardboard hamper sitting smugly in the middle of my little […]

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From Hides to Handbags: Inside a Moroccan Leather Tannery

Whenever I think of Morocco, I think of leather. For some reason, leather has always been my achilles heel of travelling. No matter how many countries I visit, I still can’t walk past a market stall covered in handbags, woven bracelets or pairs of soft shoes without reaching out my hand and running my fingers across the smooth, supple leather. […]

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On Board the Blue Train: Travelling in South African Luxury

I took a pinch of biltong between my fingers and stuffed into my mouth. The dry meat was salty, tangy, and really quite delicious: from across the Blue Train’s carriage, Vanessa nodded in approval at my reaction. “See?” she said, taking a sip of her freshly mixed Bloody Mary through a long white straw. “That’s […]

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An Unusual Introduction to South Africa

When you think of a country’s icons, what comes to mind? Is it the red phone boxes and double decker buses that throng London’s city streets? The Empire State Building that towers above New York City? The labyrinthine markets of Morocco? Of course, an icon isn’t just a physical landmark: the iconic part of a country could be experiences […]

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Women Only: Inside a Moroccan Hammam

On the afternoon of International Women’s Day, I sat on a tiled Moroccan floor in a thick cloud of steam, my bare limbs slippery and wet. An aged woman with an expression of intent concentration sat with her legs outstretched; my body placed firmly in between them, her practiced fingertips vigorously massaging black soap into […]

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