Navigating the Cuban Casa System

Navigating the Cuban Casa System

“Flora, wait!” Esther came trotting down the hallway of the small bungalow in her nightie, waving her hands as I stepped over the threshold into the thick heat of the midday Viñales sun. “What time do you want your dinner tonight? And would you like chicken or fish?” A strange request from a woman I’d only [...]

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A Lack of Familiarity: Learning How to De-Travel

It’s been a month since I left South America. Four weeks ago, my last full day in Colombia, I was on the outskirts of Bogotá playing tejo in a giant greenhouse with a group of Colombian friends; everyone drinking beers at three in the afternoon, throwing metal pucks at little packets of folded paper filled with [...]

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Still in Love with South America

“So you don’t know when you’re coming back?” I remember the face of my best friend, slightly astonished, as she took in what I was saying to her. Finally making that decision – to not buy a return ticket, to lay myself open to the possibilities of whatever the road had in store for me [...]

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The Great Havana Hustle

What do taxis, cigars, horse drawn carriages and Buena Vista Social Club have in common? Well, they’re firstly all seemingly integral parts of a tourist’s experience of Cuba. And second, they’re yours – for a price. Understanding the great Havana hustle Havana is the first port of call for the vast majority of tourists visiting [...]

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After Two Years of Travel, I’m Moving Back to England

For a long time (and without sounding too smug), I've been rather proud of how much travelling I've managed to accomplish. When I finished university in 2011, I spent six months interning in London before I realised I couldn't handle not being on the move and seeing new things, so I caught a flight to [...]

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Impressions from Inside Cuba

“Crickets are good luck in Cuba,” the man tells me, as he expertly winds a palm leaf around itself, folding the plant so it begins to represent an insect. His fingers move as quickly as his mouth does. We are in a car park just outside of Trinidad, at the base of stone steps that [...]

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