Archive | November, 2013

The Pueblo of Morado K’asa and Its Two Hundred Residents

I didn’t even know we’d arrived in Morado K’asa until Roxana pulled at my arm. Clambering past a mother and her baby, we jumped down from the little micro bus and bartered with the driver to sell us tickets for the return journey back to Sucre that afternoon. Then we shouldered our bags, peeled off […]

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Give a Shit? My Most Terrifying Toilet Experiences Around the World

When travelling, you come across a lot of interesting toilet situations. They can be squats or holes; on moving transport or in the middle of nowhere; with paper or without; using jugs of water or handfuls of rice husks to flush with. The infinite number of variables makes the unknown condition of a foreign toilet […]

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The Most Beautiful Cemetery I’ve Ever Seen

I have a bit of an affinity for graveyards. As a child, on my family's twice-yearly visits to my grandpa's grave in Somerset, there were three other plots I used to say hello to. None of them were related to me in any way; but one man had died on my birthday, another woman shared […]

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An All Night Long Dance with the San Pedro Cactus

I'd been standing in the reception of my Isla del Sol hotel for at least ten minutes, waiting for a girl to bring me a bottle of water, when two figures stumbled in through the door. He collapsed onto the nearest sofa immediately; she stepped cautiously towards the narrow trestle table that held a thermos […]

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Coping with La Paz: a City of Cold, Colour and Contradiction

“I don’t believe in the gods, but last night I prayed to them that you would come – and you did! And now I believe in them!” The man’s eyes were bright as he towered above me. I sat uncomfortably in the chair he offered, wishing he’d at least sit down too. The restaurant around […]

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