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McLeod Ganj India Tibet rock waterfall

How to Reach the Meeting of the Butts: Becoming a Hippy Yogi

“Make friends with your toes! Remember, there is no freedom in conflict! Now, hug the pillar and spread your legs!” Strange words to hear, certainly. Stranger still to hear them echoing around a green roofed circular hut at 7am , surrounded by bricks, bolsters, belts and a group of straining Westerners, all hell-bent on not breaking their […]

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The Suite Life of Mr. Mogul

To say I never know what’s going on in the Tri-City is an understatement. At least once a day, in the midst of relative calm, there is a sudden rush of movement which everyone else seems to know the reason for. This results in a lone British voice asking plaintively to be informed of the […]

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Hampi India barbershop river

Hair Removal is a Serious Business

Since arriving in Asia four months ago, I’ve been subjected to more beauty treatments than I’ve ever experienced before. From threading and waxing to an impromptu haircut and some seriously questionable massages, my legs, arms, face and head have been dealing with the fallout of an almost incessant hair removal programme. Which is something they’ve […]

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Chandigarh India dhaba baby

Heatwaves, Glowsticks and the Great Dharamsala Debate

I woke up yesterday with the heavy, dragging feeling of something hanging over me. The same infernal issue wreaking havoc in my head that had been there for almost a week. Should I get on the bus to Dharamsala today? Again? It was 9am in Panchkula and I was already boiling, despite lying under a steadily whirring fan […]

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baby India Ludhiana Punjab

Cricket, Chicken and Clubbing, Oh My!

“Look, they fall! All of them fall!” The man standing behind me grins widely into the mirror, and peels clumps of my hair from his oily fingers. I look at his reflection with a pursed mouth smile; those who know me are aware this isn’t actually a sign of genuine amusement, and actually indicates the […]

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Where Do the ‘Girl Childs’ of India Go?

Disclaimer: this post is the result of the sole opinions of a visiting Westerner, and should not be taken as an insult to those who know otherwise about the situations and facts I have mentioned. In fact, I would really appreciate hearing other opinions on this topic, so please do get in touch  if you […]

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Welcome to the City Beautiful

After being in Chandigarh for over fifteen days, the cycle of air conditioned cars and free lunchtime press conference buffets was put on a slight hiatus. In its place came a week that facilitated my outbreak onto Chandigarh’s social scene, as I was gradually introduced to a whole range of its residents. Doctors, models, colonels, majors, babies, […]

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DJ Amely Ukraine music

‘The Greatest Live World Music Concert and After Party’

‘So you can fly to Ukraine for us, then. Great.’ The movie mogul sitting opposite me takes a long sip of his chilled Kingfisher and leans back in his wicker chair. I look at my plate, where four different varieties of meat sit happily amongst a spoonful of mint chutney and some papad fragments. So […]

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The Other Side of India – or ‘Why I Had to Buy a Pair of Jeans During the Indian Summer’

I’ve been thinking a lot about the way I look at India. And, by extension, the way that India looks at me. For the last two months, I’ve seen fleeting glimpses of a vast amount of India, whether sitting on buses, sleeping on trains, or fearing for my life in leaking boats and terrifying tuktuks. Many […]

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Nine Inch Heels Presents ‘The Bling’

Those who know me well are probably a bit confused by this title. In my normal London life, I am not known as a high heel wearer, and am certainly not a flaunter of anything considered remotely ‘bling’. I’m also not particularly enamoured of either object. But here’s the thing: I’m not in London right […]

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