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So You Want to Volunteer in South America?

“I’m going to teach English in Ecuador!” This gleeful announcement was made to my dad in the summer of 2013, just three days after I’d flown back home to London from South East Asia. Still in the travelling mindset, I was already plotting my next volunteer move. Although it may sound like a spontaneous decision, the […]

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Sexism and Machismo: the Attitude to Women in Latin America

Travelling as a woman will always open up avenues that are unavailable to men. Despite being foreigners and strangers, women often connect with local children, young mothers, and old ladies with an immediacy borne from an innate trust in our gender. We are invited into Indian wedding ceremonies and Thai family kitchens, and given privileges that a […]

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Still in Love with South America

“So you don’t know when you’re coming back?” I remember the face of my best friend, slightly astonished, as she took in what I was saying to her. Finally making that decision – to not buy a return ticket, to lay myself open to the possibilities of whatever the road had in store for me […]

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The Breakdown of a Bolivian Bus

Buses in Bolivia have now become something of a joke for me. Through fourteen weeks of travel in this country, I’ve caught more buses than I care to count, and feared for my life more times than I want to remember. No, seriously. For the vast majority of travellers, the only way to get around […]

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Heights and Frights: Facing my Fears at Torotoro Park

It started with the bus ride. “Oh god,” I breathed in deeply, trying to tear my eyes away from the window and the darkness outside. Despite being half asleep, I was very aware that the undercarriage of our bus was essentially hanging over the edge of the narrow road. I didn’t know what was beyond […]

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Five Things to Know Before Travelling to Bolivia

A few days ago, I left Bolivia for Peru. After fourteen weeks, nine cities, two volunteer projects and way too much stressing about an overstayed visa, the sense of relief at leaving is palpable. Because while I’ve seriously enjoyed my time in Bolivia, there’s no doubt that over the last three months it’s also slowly […]

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Exploring the Strange and Surreal on Bolivia’s Salt Flats

The sky is huge in Bolivia. There's something about the vast amount of blue up there that makes me feel different; like I'm at once an intrinsic part of something, and yet I'm also utterly tiny and insignificant. It's both dangerous and strangely thrilling to think of yourself as nothing more than a speck. The […]

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Border Control: That Time I Went to Argentina for Absolutely No Reason

I’m very lucky to carry a British passport. It makes my life wonderfully easy at border crossings around the world – particularly in South America, where I’ve watched numerous Americans being forced to hand over wads of dollars for a visa I get for free. The bad thing, however, is that an English passport is […]

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Hey Tarija, Where’s the Wine?!

When you think of wine and South America, Bolivia doesn't immediately spring to mind. The country isn't exactly famed for its wining and dining expertise – unless you head to Tarija, a small, relatively unknown city in the south of the country that is home to the vast majority of Bolivia's vineyards. And at an […]

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Getting Stuck In to Sucre’s Food Scene

You might not have noticed, but my travels have been slowing down again somewhat since I reached Bolivia. Not to say they're ending – not by a long shot! – but I'm choosing to spend a lot longer in each place I travel to. First I spent almost five weeks in La Paz, and now […]

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