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The Pueblo of Morado K’asa and Its Two Hundred Residents

I didn’t even know we’d arrived in Morado K’asa until Roxana pulled at my arm. Clambering past a mother and her baby, we jumped down from the little micro bus and bartered with the driver to sell us tickets for the return journey back to Sucre that afternoon. Then we shouldered our bags, peeled off […]

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The Most Beautiful Cemetery I’ve Ever Seen

I have a bit of an affinity for graveyards. As a child, on my family's twice-yearly visits to my grandpa's grave in Somerset, there were three other plots I used to say hello to. None of them were related to me in any way; but one man had died on my birthday, another woman shared […]

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An All Night Long Dance with the San Pedro Cactus

I'd been standing in the reception of my Isla del Sol hotel for at least ten minutes, waiting for a girl to bring me a bottle of water, when two figures stumbled in through the door. He collapsed onto the nearest sofa immediately; she stepped cautiously towards the narrow trestle table that held a thermos […]

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Coping with La Paz: a City of Cold, Colour and Contradiction

“I don’t believe in the gods, but last night I prayed to them that you would come – and you did! And now I believe in them!” The man’s eyes were bright as he towered above me. I sat uncomfortably in the chair he offered, wishing he’d at least sit down too. The restaurant around […]

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Working in a Bolivian Artificial Limb Clinic

“Ah, shit! I’ve broken my leg…” Two Bolivian ladies flutter anxiously around me as I attempt to get up from the pavement, my spectacular stumble-and-fall still fresh in my memory. My leg is askew in front of me, battered and bruised. The knee joint has separated completely from the calf; the two halves lie a […]

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The Spanish Challenge: Don’t Speak English in Bolivia

Hola mis amores! El artículo de hoy es un poco diferente, porque ahora estoy en Bolivia – y mientras yo estoy aquí, he decidido que no voy a hablar nada de inglés. Sólo en español. Buena suerte para mí, no? … Just kidding. To those who don’t understand the above, hopefully the title will have […]

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The Spanish Challenge: Achieve Fluency Before Leaving South America

Six months ago, I relocated to Ecuador, a Spanish speaking country, with little to no Spanish speaking skills of my own. I moved in with a host family, started volunteering as an English teacher at a local high school, and attempted the task of learning Spanish. Half a year later and I’m sad to say […]

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