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El Camino de Santiago: I’m Walking ‘The Way’ Across Spain

Over Christmas, my friend announced that she’s planning to run the London marathon in April. She’s running for a cause important to both of us: her mum passed away from breast cancer three years ago, the same cancer that took my own mum. My first thought was extreme respect – running for 26 miles straight is no […]

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Sexism and Machismo: the Attitude to Women in Latin America

Travelling as a woman will always open up avenues that are unavailable to men. Despite being foreigners and strangers, women often connect with local children, young mothers, and old ladies with an immediacy borne from an innate trust in our gender. We are invited into Indian wedding ceremonies and Thai family kitchens, and given privileges that a […]

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From Farm to Factory: the Truth Behind Cuban Cigars

The first cigar I ever smoked was when I was studying abroad in Florence. My friend Kath had been given one as a present: we lit it up along with a lot of giggling, took turns with a puff each – and suddenly I felt horribly sick. No one had ever told me not to […]

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Navigating the Cuban Casa System

Navigating the Cuban Casa System

“Flora, wait!” Esther came trotting down the hallway of the small bungalow in her nightie, waving her hands as I stepped over the threshold into the thick heat of the midday Viñales sun. “What time do you want your dinner tonight? And would you like chicken or fish?” A strange request from a woman I’d only […]

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Still in Love with South America

“So you don’t know when you’re coming back?” I remember the face of my best friend, slightly astonished, as she took in what I was saying to her. Finally making that decision – to not buy a return ticket, to lay myself open to the possibilities of whatever the road had in store for me […]

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The Great Havana Hustle

What do taxis, cigars, horse drawn carriages and Buena Vista Social Club have in common? Well, they’re firstly all seemingly integral parts of a tourist’s experience of Cuba. And second, they’re yours – for a price. Understanding the great Havana hustle Havana is the first port of call for the vast majority of tourists visiting […]

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After Two Years of Travel, I’m Moving Back to England

For a long time (and without sounding too smug), I've been rather proud of how much travelling I've managed to accomplish. When I finished university in 2011, I spent six months interning in London before I realised I couldn't handle not being on the move and seeing new things, so I caught a flight to […]

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Impressions from Inside Cuba

“Crickets are good luck in Cuba,” the man tells me, as he expertly winds a palm leaf around itself, folding the plant so it begins to represent an insect. His fingers move as quickly as his mouth does. We are in a car park just outside of Trinidad, at the base of stone steps that […]

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An All Night Long Dance with the San Pedro Cactus

I'd been standing in the reception of my Isla del Sol hotel for at least ten minutes, waiting for a girl to bring me a bottle of water, when two figures stumbled in through the door. He collapsed onto the nearest sofa immediately; she stepped cautiously towards the narrow trestle table that held a thermos […]

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Coping with La Paz: a City of Cold, Colour and Contradiction

“I don’t believe in the gods, but last night I prayed to them that you would come – and you did! And now I believe in them!” The man’s eyes were bright as he towered above me. I sat uncomfortably in the chair he offered, wishing he’d at least sit down too. The restaurant around […]

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