Cycling in Bharatpur, India

Beggars, Bedbugs and the Back of the Taj

I always knew that India was going to be filled to the brim with tiny hands asking for food and painfully skinny women asking for money. What I didn’t expect was the intensity with which it’s thrust into your face. Rajasthan wasn’t that bad to start with, but things suddenly escalated in Jaipur, and it […]

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Pushkar India hippies

Haircuts, Hippies and the Pushy Priests of Pushkar

For the last few months, I’ve been steadily realising how much my hair annoys me. During the freezing London winter, it’s always too long, getting stuck underneath scarves or bag straps, turning into a static flyaway mess. It seems to be becoming drier and more foreign when I see it in the mirror – so […]

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Jaisalmer, India: Coloured Powder, Camel Racing & Gandhi’s Watch

Going abroad is great. Within no time, you seem to have forgotten what day it is, and it doesn’t even seem to matter. Time begins to evaporate, and you’ll spend hours in a rooftop cafe, sipping a lassi, listening to the birds chirp and the dogs bark… Unfortunately, the difficulty with this disassociation between you […]

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A Very Indian Birthday

On the morning of my 24th birthday, I awoke to red ants crawling in my toothpaste and a broken toilet seat. I turned over and groaned; after a few days respite, my stomach was making its ridiculous gurgling noises again. A very strange place for a birthday…   Our group of intrepid travellers was in a little village […]

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Chitwan, Chakras and Charcoal

A steaming glass sat in front of me on the kitchen table. I eyed it dubiously. The woman in the chair opposite had just poured a heaped spoonful of black powder into the boiling water, where the majority of it still sat floating happily on the surface. ‘That’s because it’s so light,’ she said, resealing […]

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How to Wash Your Hair in Kathmandu

Have you ever tried to wash in Kathmandu? Rolling electrical blackouts and an erratic work schedule can only mean one thing when it comes to showering; no matter how hard you try, the water is always going to be cold.  Before I arrived in Nepal I used to think water had three temperatures – and […]

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