Tag Archives | peru

The Spanish Challenge: a Surprise Return to Paracas, Peru

It’s early in Lima. Men scurry along either side of the barrier which divides the congested highway in two. They carry paper-covered boxes of snacks to sell to car drivers through their windows: small biscuits, wafers, hot peanuts. Boys with stacks of newspapers pass women wearing tracksuits and pushing supermarket trolleys, who yawn as they delve inside their bumbags filled […]

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Sunshine and Sunburn: Going Back to South America

Somehow, the conversation had moved onto breasts. “It’s really horrible!” Jenna said, picking up her beer bottle and looking at her husband’s face. “You’re in the perfect place to sunbathe, and then you can’t wear a bikini because your breasts are burnt!” Jenna and Dave were in a year into the trip of a lifetime, […]

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On Fear, Self Deprecation and my Traveller Alter Ego

“I hate this,” I said, slightly pathetically, to the empty air around me. There was nobody near enough to hear the words: the only people capable of listening were already halfway down into the canyon. I was way behind the group, taking my time as usual. I also happened to be muttering darkly to myself […]

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The Salcantay Trek: Why I Closed my Eyes at Machu Picchu

This is the final installment of a three part series about my trek to Machu Picchu. Read the first and second installments here! The Incas were blessed with ridiculously small feet. I know this for absolute certain because, while mine are a modest UK size 5.5, I still spent the majority of my time at […]

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The Salcantay Trek: What to Do When a Crazed Horse Breaks Your Collarbone

This is the second installment of a three-part series about my trek to Machu Picchu. Read the first installment and the third installment here! The paths that wind downwards through the mountains on the second day of the Salkantay trek are narrow, twisting and peppered with rocks. But after a relaxing lunch, the views and […]

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Crossing the Ecuador-Peru Border on Foot: the Longest 100km of My Life

How to leave Ecuador and barely enter Peru I looked out, bleary eyed, from the folds of sarong wrapped around my head. I’d spent the last half hour trying to fall asleep, but the combination of the Pan-American Highway’s ever present road bumps and a bus with zero suspension were doing their utmost to stop […]

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Cuenca to Cusco and Back Again: the Pitfalls of Planning a Trip to Peru

I stood in the small office, studiously trying to avoid the unflinching gaze of a prostrate Jesus. Under his crucified frame, a nun was peering at a computer screen, clicking idly through her Facebook page. “So…is it ok if I go to Peru next week?” I shifted uncomfortably as the nun looked me up and […]

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