Tag Archives | South America

Between a Rock and a Colourful Place: the Magical Realism of Guatape

A few hours away from Medellin, in the midst of the rolling green Colombian countryside, sits a rock. But this isn't just any old rock. El Peñol de Piedra is huge, the only giant rock for miles around; it looks out over clusters of tiny islands dotted with trees and houses; and it's the centre […]

Continue Reading Comments { 23 }

Sunshine and Sunburn: Going Back to South America

Somehow, the conversation had moved onto breasts. “It’s really horrible!” Jenna said, picking up her beer bottle and looking at her husband’s face. “You’re in the perfect place to sunbathe, and then you can’t wear a bikini because your breasts are burnt!” Jenna and Dave were in a year into the trip of a lifetime, […]

Continue Reading Comments { 8 }

Thirteen Hours in Atlanta Airport: Why I’m Flying Back Home

There’s always a quiet spot in an airport, if you look hard enough. Most people who wander the gleaming white corridors and settle briefly in arm-rested chair rows aren’t in need of somewhere calm: they’re about to board a plane for somewhere new, foreign and exciting, and peace and quiet is the last thing on […]

Continue Reading Comments { 19 }

The Breakdown of a Bolivian Bus

Buses in Bolivia have now become something of a joke for me. Through fourteen weeks of travel in this country, I’ve caught more buses than I care to count, and feared for my life more times than I want to remember. No, seriously. For the vast majority of travellers, the only way to get around […]

Continue Reading Comments { 34 }

Five Things to Know Before Travelling to Bolivia

A few days ago, I left Bolivia for Peru. After fourteen weeks, nine cities, two volunteer projects and way too much stressing about an overstayed visa, the sense of relief at leaving is palpable. Because while I’ve seriously enjoyed my time in Bolivia, there’s no doubt that over the last three months it’s also slowly […]

Continue Reading Comments { 124 }

Border Control: That Time I Went to Argentina for Absolutely No Reason

I’m very lucky to carry a British passport. It makes my life wonderfully easy at border crossings around the world – particularly in South America, where I’ve watched numerous Americans being forced to hand over wads of dollars for a visa I get for free. The bad thing, however, is that an English passport is […]

Continue Reading Comments { 28 }

Getting Stuck In to Sucre’s Food Scene

You might not have noticed, but my travels have been slowing down again somewhat since I reached Bolivia. Not to say they're ending – not by a long shot! – but I'm choosing to spend a lot longer in each place I travel to. First I spent almost five weeks in La Paz, and now […]

Continue Reading Comments { 29 }

Give a Shit? My Most Terrifying Toilet Experiences Around the World

When travelling, you come across a lot of interesting toilet situations. They can be squats or holes; on moving transport or in the middle of nowhere; with paper or without; using jugs of water or handfuls of rice husks to flush with. The infinite number of variables makes the unknown condition of a foreign toilet […]

Continue Reading Comments { 55 }

The Most Beautiful Cemetery I’ve Ever Seen

I have a bit of an affinity for graveyards. As a child, on my family's twice-yearly visits to my grandpa's grave in Somerset, there were three other plots I used to say hello to. None of them were related to me in any way; but one man had died on my birthday, another woman shared […]

Continue Reading Comments { 18 }

Coping with La Paz: a City of Cold, Colour and Contradiction

“I don’t believe in the gods, but last night I prayed to them that you would come – and you did! And now I believe in them!” The man’s eyes were bright as he towered above me. I sat uncomfortably in the chair he offered, wishing he’d at least sit down too. The restaurant around […]

Continue Reading Comments { 17 }