Tag Archives | travelling

Thoughts From the Window Seat

It’s finally springtime in London. Joggers and dog walkers are multiplying; people walk down the pavement with sunglasses and smiling faces. This morning I am sitting at a desk in the new house I recently moved to, with the green spines of my flatmate’s aloe vera plant snaking towards my laptop screen. I am writing – more […]

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The Day I Walked to the End of the World

Arriving in Santiago didn’t feel the way I expected. The Spaniards I had been walking with for the last seven days had tears in their eyes as we walked through the city’s winding streets and emerged in the central plaza. The famous cathedral towered above us, its facade draped in netting and scaffolds. My friends began […]

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A Travel Update: My Plans This Summer

This week, I flicked back through my diary and realised that it’s almost been a full year since I arrived home in London after eighteen months spent travelling through my favourite continent. One year since South America?! It feels strange to think about myself back then. I didn’t feel particularly homely about my return; if anything, I was more unsettled […]

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How to Travel the World (Without Leaving London)

“So where are you from?” asks the girl chopping up onions beside me. We’ve been preparing food in the companionable semi-silence of a small hostel kitchen for a good few minutes: it’s time to have the obligatory initial travellers conversation. “Oh, I’m from London, in England. How about you?” I reply – and the girl’s curiosity […]

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Navigating the Cuban Casa System

Navigating the Cuban Casa System

“Flora, wait!” Esther came trotting down the hallway of the small bungalow in her nightie, waving her hands as I stepped over the threshold into the thick heat of the midday Viñales sun. “What time do you want your dinner tonight? And would you like chicken or fish?” A strange request from a woman I’d only […]

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Do We Really Need Technology to Travel?

Sometimes it amazes me how much we rely on technology. The amount of travellers I meet who can't escape the clutches of their smartphones or laptops in the common rooms of hostels; the amount of people who don't get lost in new cities anymore because they've already downloaded the right map. In 2007, I went […]

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Between a Rock and a Colourful Place: the Magical Realism of Guatape

A few hours away from Medellin, in the midst of the rolling green Colombian countryside, sits a rock. But this isn't just any old rock. El Peñol de Piedra is huge, the only giant rock for miles around; it looks out over clusters of tiny islands dotted with trees and houses; and it's the centre […]

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The Breakdown of a Bolivian Bus

Buses in Bolivia have now become something of a joke for me. Through fourteen weeks of travel in this country, I’ve caught more buses than I care to count, and feared for my life more times than I want to remember. No, seriously. For the vast majority of travellers, the only way to get around […]

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Five Things to Know Before Travelling to Bolivia

A few days ago, I left Bolivia for Peru. After fourteen weeks, nine cities, two volunteer projects and way too much stressing about an overstayed visa, the sense of relief at leaving is palpable. Because while I’ve seriously enjoyed my time in Bolivia, there’s no doubt that over the last three months it’s also slowly […]

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Exploring the Strange and Surreal on Bolivia’s Salt Flats

The sky is huge in Bolivia. There's something about the vast amount of blue up there that makes me feel different; like I'm at once an intrinsic part of something, and yet I'm also utterly tiny and insignificant. It's both dangerous and strangely thrilling to think of yourself as nothing more than a speck. The […]

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