Tag Archives | travelling

The Salcantay Trek: What to Do When a Crazed Horse Breaks Your Collarbone

This is the second installment of a three-part series about my trek to Machu Picchu. Read the first installment and the third installment here! The paths that wind downwards through the mountains on the second day of the Salkantay trek are narrow, twisting and peppered with rocks. But after a relaxing lunch, the views and […]

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Learning the Ropes at the Rodeo

“Hola Piña! Como vas?!” I turned around for the fifth time in half an hour to see a group of girls eagerly clambering down the stone bleachers towards us. In front of me, the tall figure of ‘Piña’ – otherwise known as Jose, and still further known as my friend Sherri’s host brother – stretched […]

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Citizens of the World: A Manifesto

“Excuse me.” A middle aged woman passing our table stopped for a moment. She looked down her heavily made-up nose at us haughtily; a group of English girls in an Ecuadorian coffee shop on a weekday evening, eagerly discussing our travelling plans for the next few months. Clearly the concept was not at all appealing […]

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Happy, Safe and Solo: Travelling in India by Yourself

When I told my dad that I was going to India by myself, his face fell. No matter that my cousin had travelled for a year through the country on her own; no matter, too, that I’d been travelling solo on various trips for the last six years. No: in his opinion, India was something else […]

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Dogs, Mozzies and Celebrity Siblings

Eyes bright. Fingers tensed. Adrenaline surging through a myriad of veins. “NO! Go away! Get out of here!” I swung my bag violently in mid air, my breathing thick and fast, squinting through the drizzling rain. It was 6.30am. The streets of Pai had only just seen the dawn. And I was locked in a […]

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A Little Village Wedding in the Indian Mountains

When I casually composed a bucket list for my travels through India, my favourite and most ambitious hope by far was to attend an Indian wedding. But I didn’t just want to poke my head round the door of a stranger’s matrimonials; in my heart of hearts, I lusted after a personal invitation, and all […]

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McLeod Ganj India Tibet rock waterfall

How to Reach the Meeting of the Butts: Becoming a Hippy Yogi

“Make friends with your toes! Remember, there is no freedom in conflict! Now, hug the pillar and spread your legs!” Strange words to hear, certainly. Stranger still to hear them echoing around a green roofed circular hut at 7am , surrounded by bricks, bolsters, belts and a group of straining Westerners, all hell-bent on not breaking their […]

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The Suite Life of Mr. Mogul

To say I never know what’s going on in the Tri-City is an understatement. At least once a day, in the midst of relative calm, there is a sudden rush of movement which everyone else seems to know the reason for. This results in a lone British voice asking plaintively to be informed of the […]

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Chandigarh India dhaba baby

Heatwaves, Glowsticks and the Great Dharamsala Debate

I woke up yesterday with the heavy, dragging feeling of something hanging over me. The same infernal issue wreaking havoc in my head that had been there for almost a week. Should I get on the bus to Dharamsala today? Again? It was 9am in Panchkula and I was already boiling, despite lying under a steadily whirring fan […]

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Jaisalmer, India: Coloured Powder, Camel Racing & Gandhi’s Watch

Going abroad is great. Within no time, you seem to have forgotten what day it is, and it doesn’t even seem to matter. Time begins to evaporate, and you’ll spend hours in a rooftop cafe, sipping a lassi, listening to the birds chirp and the dogs bark… Unfortunately, the difficulty with this disassociation between you […]

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