Grieving at Christmas is a tradition I wish I didn’t have to follow. Both of my parents died in winter. But even if they’d died outside the confines of twinkling lights and snowy landscapes, this season would still fill me with dread. Whether you’re facing your first Christmas or your twentieth after losing a loved one, it’s likely you’re expecting it to hurt. Grief doesn’t seem to hold itself to the normal passage of time: the intensity of emotion may…
Samhuinn Fire Festival: Celebrating Edinburgh’s Ancient Halloween Tradition
Posted on November 27, 2019What do you know about the Samhuinn Fire Festival? If you’re anything like me, you probably don’t know much. And if I told you that Samhuinn takes place on the same day as Halloween, you might assume they’re the same thing. But Samhuinn has been a significant event since ancient times. It’s the pagan precursor to Halloween; the reason why so many countries celebrate all things ghostly every October 31st. Samhuinn (also known as Samhain and pronounced ‘sah-wen’) is an…
Discover A World of Stories at Edinburgh’s Storytelling Festival
Posted on November 27, 2019It was a chilly autumn morning in Edinburgh, and I was late for the Storytelling Festival. I wove my way past groups of tourists along the Royal Mile until I reached a slightly crooked corner building – painted white on one side, bare brick on the other. I rushed up the stairs of the Scottish Storytelling Centre and suddenly stood inside a warm cafe, where my glasses steamed up immediately. I looked around and spotted a white-haired man with eagles…
When you think of a youth hostel in the English countryside, a Victorian Gothic mansion doesn’t spring to mind. But YHA Castleton Losehill Hall is just that: a stunning stately home built in 1882, now converted into a YHA hostel which travellers use as a base for hiking explorations in the Peak District. One of the UK’s most beloved national parks, the Peak District is right in the centre of England and stretches across five different counties. There are plenty…
At first glance, the little town of Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, is picture-perfect. Under bright skies, tourists flock to Lunenburg to eat ice cream, shop for souvenirs, and learn about the town’s rich maritime history at the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic. Lunenburg is famous for its brightly coloured clapboard houses lining the narrow streets, and for its picturesque harbour, home to the famous tall ship Bluenose II. And as one of the best surviving British-built colonial towns in North America, the whole of Lunenburg’s…
The Rise of Little Free Libraries: Why Giving Your Books Away Is a Great Idea
Posted on October 14, 2019Have you ever noticed the little free libraries in London? You might have seen them outside residential houses or against the wall of a cafe. They crop up at supermarket check-outs and on the platforms of train stations. They can be as as obvious as a set of shelves or subtly hidden inside a wardrobe; as small as a bird house or as big as an iconic red phone booth – but they all have one thing in common. They’re libraries.…
Cloudberries & Woodsmoke Tea: a Newfoundland Beach Boil-Up
Posted on October 6, 2019The sun is setting on our Fortune beach Boil-Up in Newfoundland, Canada. We sip our tea from patterned china cups, looking out at the lapping waves, and Brian tells us this is the second cup of tea he’s ever drunk in his life. “I never really thought I’d like the taste of tea – but it’s actually quite good!” Brian Rose is a man who wears many hats. He’s lived in the tiny town of Fortune in Newfoundland & Labrador for most…
Celebrating Summer at Estonia’s Ancient Bonfire Festival
Posted on September 29, 2019On Kihnu island, the Night of Ancient Bonfires is just beginning. We stand on the sand, watching a modest group of Estonian musicians in traditional dress as they play a jaunty tune on accordions and guitars. Above us is a beautiful hazy summer dusk sky – although the soft pastel colours aren’t distraction enough from the mosquitos which buzz through the air and nip at our skin. I look across the stacked-up pile of wood in the centre of this…
Anxiety Stole My Love Of Travel. This Is How I’m Fixing It.
Posted on September 22, 2019It’s a pitch-black night on an Estonian island, and I’m having an anxiety attack. Just ahead on the narrow road, the light from Kim’s torch skitters over the gravel as she flashes it in an arc towards me. Her bike stays level and continues moving forward: she’s a good enough cyclist to easily maintain her balance with just one hand on the handlebars. “Flora? Are you OK?” My bike is snaking and wobbling all over the place. I’ve completely lost…
Where to Stay in Svalbard: Longyearbyen’s Best Hotels, Hostels & Camping Spots
Posted on September 5, 2019Where are the best hotels in Svalbard? When I decided to spend a week in Longyearbyen, Svalbard, I didn’t think too much about where to stay. Like I do when planning most trips, I just assumed there’d be a lot of places to choose from. Not so much. Svalbard sits at the end of the world, and the main settlement of Longyearbyen is officially the world’s northernmost town. It’s not a big place, though. With a population small enough to…