Up in the mountains above La Paz, Bolivia, there’s a market called El Alto. On a Sunday morning under a crisp blue sky, I stepped out of a minibus beside the…
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Breathe. You are going to be OK. It might not feel like it right now. Your heart might be beating out of your chest with anxiety. Tears may be streaming down…
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Welcome to Pyramiden, Svalbard: population 7 High up in the north of Norway in the Svalbard archipelago is a town called Longyearbyen. It’s generally known as the northernmost town in the…
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Wira built his first guesthouse in the middle of the Bali rice terraces. The floor-to-ceiling windows are stacked up against the sky; the thatched straw roof blending seamlessly into the greens…
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I’m about to meet the founders of Ethnotek. We’re approaching the entrance a little cafe just outside central Ubud when I see a distinctive backpack attached to a woman on a…
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In front of me stood four huge masked figures. They towered upward, larger than life, their impassive faces staring down at me with vacantly fixed smiles. The tiles creaked beneath my…
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“Single-use plastics are the devil!” I stood in the pharmacy aisle, staring at the dental floss picks in disbelief. Twenty different brands, all with plastic handles wrapped in cellophane, all of…
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7 Ethical Travel Mistakes I’ve Made – And How You Can Avoid Them
Confession: I am not an ethical traveller. I say this because when I think back over my travels, there have been many situations I probably should have questioned more than I…
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It’s been almost a year since my dad died. I’m writing this in the living room at my boyfriend’s flat in Glasgow. His dog is snoring on the sofa with his…
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This is the house I was born in. It’s the only family home I’ve ever known. This is where my parents brought me as a baby in March 1988; to a…