My first morning above the Arctic Circle was nothing like I expected. I woke with a start at 2.45am. The expedition ship was pitching and rolling like a mad thing: coats on…
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advice Camino de Santiago Challenges Europe Solo Travel SpainA Female Pilgrim’s Camino Packing List
What makes the perfect Camino packing list? On September 12th 2015, I started walking through the city of Leon in northern Spain. For the next twenty days I walked to Santiago de…
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My biggest dream on this Norwegian Arctic trip? To see polar bears in Svalbard. After a week spent living onboard the Quark expedition ship, we finally had our first full day…
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Challenges England Photography What the hell? WomenSea of Hull: Why I Got Naked & Blue with Three Thousand People
At 4am in a park in Hull, Spencer Tunick held up a megaphone and told me to strip. Thankfully, I wasn’t the only person he was talking to. The crowds of people…
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Have you ever seen a hundred naked human bodies? It started in Oslo, on a muggy summer Sunday with a hint of rain in the air. After two weeks on board…
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“The day the compass spun…” Eleanor’s eyes were bright, her knife and fork abandoned at either side of her china plate. “It was when we skied along that frozen river – Bob, you remember?”…
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This week, my laptop died. I was mid-sentence at the time, hovering over which new Spotify playlist to accompany writing a chapter about Peru when suddenly my screen went black. No…
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“Shall we walk home through the city?” Beverley and I had been out for lunch on a sunny Sunday in London’s Southbank, treating ourselves to burgers and beers beside a window…
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It’s finally springtime in London. Joggers and dog walkers are multiplying; people walk down the pavement with sunglasses and smiling faces. This morning I am sitting at a desk in the new…
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“The coffee is different in Campania…” Marianna winces slightly as she sips her espresso. I’m sitting around a cluster of narrow wooden tables with a group of Italians, all who hail…