There’s a lot you don’t know about Svalbard. I didn’t know much about this little island in the Norwegian Arctic before I arrived either – but after spending a week in…
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norway
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Welcome to Pyramiden, Svalbard: population 7 High up in the north of Norway in the Svalbard archipelago is a town called Longyearbyen. It’s generally known as the northernmost town in the…
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My first morning above the Arctic Circle was nothing like I expected. I woke with a start at 2.45am. The expedition ship was pitching and rolling like a mad thing: coats on…
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My biggest dream on this Norwegian Arctic trip? To see polar bears in Svalbard. After a week spent living onboard the Quark expedition ship, we finally had our first full day…
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Have you ever seen a hundred naked human bodies? It started in Oslo, on a muggy summer Sunday with a hint of rain in the air. After two weeks on board…
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“The day the compass spun…” Eleanor’s eyes were bright, her knife and fork abandoned at either side of her china plate. “It was when we skied along that frozen river – Bob, you remember?”…
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This week, my laptop died. I was mid-sentence at the time, hovering over which new Spotify playlist to accompany writing a chapter about Peru when suddenly my screen went black. No…