Hugo and Consuela have a framed photo of Che Guevara above their fish tank. This middle-aged couple, my casa hosts in Santa Clara, have just bought three slices of peso pizza from…
spanish
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Language Personal Peru South America Spanish Challenge
The Spanish Challenge: a Surprise Return to Paracas, Peru
It’s early in Lima. Men scurry along either side of the barrier which divides the congested highway in two. They carry paper-covered boxes of snacks to sell to car drivers through their windows:…
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advice Bolivia Brazil Chile Colombia Ecuador Peru South America Volunteering
So You Want to Volunteer in South America?
Last updated March 2019 “I’m going to volunteer in South America!” This gleeful announcement was made to my dad in the summer of 2013, just three days after I’d flown back home…
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Camino de Santiago Europe Language Solo Travel Spain Spanish Challenge The Camino
The Spanish Challenge: Walking the Camino with Spaniards
NB: Long-term readers may remember that during my travels through South America, I wrote a series of articles about my Spanish learning progress called ‘The Spanish Challenge’. It’s been a while…
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Coming to Medellin was always supposed to be the final push on my Spanish skill levels. I would live and work in the Colombian city for four months, emerging with not…
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Bolivia Personal Solo Travel South America
La Paz, Bolivia: a City of Cold, Colour and Contradiction
“I don’t believe in the gods, but last night I prayed to them that you would come – and you did! And now I believe in them!” The man’s eyes were…
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Bolivia Challenges Personal South America Spanish Challenge
The Spanish Challenge: Don’t Speak English in Bolivia
Hola mis amores! Hola mis amores! El artículo de hoy es un poco diferente, porque ahora estoy en Bolivia – y mientras yo estoy aquí, he decidido que no voy a…
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“Welcome to Bogotá!” Felipe shouted, joyfully, as we raced over yet another gaping hole in the road. His words were almost whipped from his mouth by the wind; I held on…
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Challenges Colombia Language South America Spanish Challenge
Two Weeks of Spanish Classes with Nueva Lengua School in Colombia
My first Spanish classes – in Colombia The beginning of September has brought with it the sudden realisation that I’ve been in South America for seven months. Which means I’ve also…
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If you’ve wondered whether it’s safe in Medellin, Colombia, you’re not alone. Worrying about safety in Colombia has been a common thought process for decades – and not just for tourists,…